SUPERBIKE TODAY
Tuesday, November 23, 2010
Anthony West has re-signed with MZ Racing for a second season of Moto2 racing
Anthony West has re-signed with MZ Racing for a second season of Moto2 racing as he looks to capitalise on the raft of changes being instigated by the German team.
Having announced a link-up with Italian team Pro Ride – which made two failed attempts to get on the World Superbike grid in 2009 and 2010 -, MZ Racing also confirmed the signing of former WSBK race winner Max Neukirchner for the 2011 season.
However, the team will expand to two entries next year with the retention of West, MZ hoping the former MotoGP rider will prove invaluable when it comes to improving a bike which didn’t have the pace to match Suter and Moriwaki in 2011.
"Anthony battled his way through a very difficult first season with our bike, and he scored three top ten results for us," MZ CEO Martin Wimmer is quoted as saying. "He also proved his incredible talent in wet conditions, and he is always a safe bet for a podium finish when it rains.
“He's done a lot for us this year, and we are happy and excited about the continuation of our great working relationship. To have him race alongside with Max Neukirchner is a very promising combination. As we all know.”
West and MZ – which was revived as a company in 2009 by former GP racers Wimmer and Ralf Waldmann – received a late entry to the Moto2 series in 2010, but struggled to prove consistently competitive.
Racing with the only MZ chassis on the grid, West proved strong in the wet, though he would be limited to just three top ten race finishes and a best of seventh position.
Having announced a link-up with Italian team Pro Ride – which made two failed attempts to get on the World Superbike grid in 2009 and 2010 -, MZ Racing also confirmed the signing of former WSBK race winner Max Neukirchner for the 2011 season.
However, the team will expand to two entries next year with the retention of West, MZ hoping the former MotoGP rider will prove invaluable when it comes to improving a bike which didn’t have the pace to match Suter and Moriwaki in 2011.
"Anthony battled his way through a very difficult first season with our bike, and he scored three top ten results for us," MZ CEO Martin Wimmer is quoted as saying. "He also proved his incredible talent in wet conditions, and he is always a safe bet for a podium finish when it rains.
“He's done a lot for us this year, and we are happy and excited about the continuation of our great working relationship. To have him race alongside with Max Neukirchner is a very promising combination. As we all know.”
West and MZ – which was revived as a company in 2009 by former GP racers Wimmer and Ralf Waldmann – received a late entry to the Moto2 series in 2010, but struggled to prove consistently competitive.
Racing with the only MZ chassis on the grid, West proved strong in the wet, though he would be limited to just three top ten race finishes and a best of seventh position.
Saturday, November 20, 2010
Sepang Circuit 101
| [July 5, 2003 06:26 PM] This is a plan of the full Sepang Circuit. It runs clockwise. (Length - 5.543 km) Aerial view  Sepang - North circuit (Length - 2.807 km ) Sepang - South circuit (Length - 2.609 km) |
Which Way to Lean?
[June 20, 2004 08:54 PM]
When riding a bike (fast) around a track,
THE BIKE IS ALWAYS ACCELERATING.
Do you agree with this statement?
*This is only not true when the bike has reached its top speed before braking. For the rest of the circuit it holds true.
Generally, when we talk about acceleration, we tend to think of gaining speed, but an acceleration is actually defined:
Acceleration = change in velocity
The difference between speed and velocity is that speed has no direction, but when you say velocity, you are implying a direction. For example, a bike traveling north at 100kmh has a velocity of 100kmh north. Let’s suppose that the rider enters into a smooth corner to the right and maintained 100kmh. His speedo would register no change in speed, but his velocity would have changed to 100kmh East and to do this would have required an acceleration to the East AND a deceleration to the South. The acceleration to the East is simple to see, but the bike will also have accelerated in a Southwards direction. This is not so obvious, but if it didn’t, it would still be going in a northerly direction.
Ok so it’s a bit pedantic, but understanding this will help to illuminate a crucial part of riding.
When hard on the throttle down the straight, the bike is accelerating in a forward direction. This is obvious enough but at the end of the straight when the brakes are applied, suddenly, the acceleration is in the opposite direction, i.e. a bike braking is actually accelerating backwards.
When turning to the right at steady speed, the bike is actually accelerating to the right in a 3 O’clock direction. Conversely when turning to the left at steady speed, the bike is accelerating to the left in 9 O’clock direction.
If you are in a right-hand corner which is opening up and you are accelerating through it, the bike is accelerating in a 3 O’clock direction AND forward, the net result being an acceleration roughly in the 2 O’clock direction.
Conversely, when in a decreasing-radius right-hand corner, i.e. slowing down in a corner, the bike is still accelerating in a 3 O’clock direction AND backwards, the net resultant being the bike is accelerating in a 4 O’clock direction.
Ok great, but what has this got to do with riding?
Knowing which way a bike is accelerating is useful to figure out which direction to lean your body. On the straight this is obvious enough: when accelerating down the straight, lean forward. When braking, i.e. accelerating backwards, lean back. Your body should always lean in the direction of the acceleration.
This is helpful to know in the turns. When negotiating a constant radius turn like Turn 1, assuming that you have a bike with a 50:50 front-rear weight distribution, you should lean into the turn in a 3 O’clock direction. However, when in corner like Turn 3 at Sepang, where you can accelerate all the way through the turn, it may be beneficial to actually lean forward a bit, because the acceleration of the bike will not be in a 3 O’clock direction but probably more in a 2 O’clock direction.
So far so good, but what happens when you are in a right-hand corner which requires a bit of steady speed through it and then opens up? Well quite simply, when going through the steady speed part, your body should be leaning in a 3 O’clock position but as you pick up speed through the corner, you should move your body forward to accommodate the change in direction.
An article cannot tell you how far to lean off- you will have to learn this through experience and a bit of trial and hopefully not too much error. However, being aware of acceleration vectors can be helpful in giving you an indication of where you should be leaning.
When riding a bike (fast) around a track,
THE BIKE IS ALWAYS ACCELERATING.
Do you agree with this statement?
*This is only not true when the bike has reached its top speed before braking. For the rest of the circuit it holds true.
Generally, when we talk about acceleration, we tend to think of gaining speed, but an acceleration is actually defined:
Acceleration = change in velocity
The difference between speed and velocity is that speed has no direction, but when you say velocity, you are implying a direction. For example, a bike traveling north at 100kmh has a velocity of 100kmh north. Let’s suppose that the rider enters into a smooth corner to the right and maintained 100kmh. His speedo would register no change in speed, but his velocity would have changed to 100kmh East and to do this would have required an acceleration to the East AND a deceleration to the South. The acceleration to the East is simple to see, but the bike will also have accelerated in a Southwards direction. This is not so obvious, but if it didn’t, it would still be going in a northerly direction.
Ok so it’s a bit pedantic, but understanding this will help to illuminate a crucial part of riding.
When hard on the throttle down the straight, the bike is accelerating in a forward direction. This is obvious enough but at the end of the straight when the brakes are applied, suddenly, the acceleration is in the opposite direction, i.e. a bike braking is actually accelerating backwards.
When turning to the right at steady speed, the bike is actually accelerating to the right in a 3 O’clock direction. Conversely when turning to the left at steady speed, the bike is accelerating to the left in 9 O’clock direction.
If you are in a right-hand corner which is opening up and you are accelerating through it, the bike is accelerating in a 3 O’clock direction AND forward, the net result being an acceleration roughly in the 2 O’clock direction.
Conversely, when in a decreasing-radius right-hand corner, i.e. slowing down in a corner, the bike is still accelerating in a 3 O’clock direction AND backwards, the net resultant being the bike is accelerating in a 4 O’clock direction.
Ok great, but what has this got to do with riding?
Knowing which way a bike is accelerating is useful to figure out which direction to lean your body. On the straight this is obvious enough: when accelerating down the straight, lean forward. When braking, i.e. accelerating backwards, lean back. Your body should always lean in the direction of the acceleration.
This is helpful to know in the turns. When negotiating a constant radius turn like Turn 1, assuming that you have a bike with a 50:50 front-rear weight distribution, you should lean into the turn in a 3 O’clock direction. However, when in corner like Turn 3 at Sepang, where you can accelerate all the way through the turn, it may be beneficial to actually lean forward a bit, because the acceleration of the bike will not be in a 3 O’clock direction but probably more in a 2 O’clock direction.
So far so good, but what happens when you are in a right-hand corner which requires a bit of steady speed through it and then opens up? Well quite simply, when going through the steady speed part, your body should be leaning in a 3 O’clock position but as you pick up speed through the corner, you should move your body forward to accommodate the change in direction.
An article cannot tell you how far to lean off- you will have to learn this through experience and a bit of trial and hopefully not too much error. However, being aware of acceleration vectors can be helpful in giving you an indication of where you should be leaning.
Basic Riding Techniques
[May 14, 2004 09:20 PM]
If you are reading this, it is assumed that you have passed your riding test and can handle a big bike competently, able to ride it as second nature. The information in here is to help you negotiate corners better since going down the straight flat-out should not be too much of a problem.
Those who have never seen a highly-trained rider at close range (especially if they are overtaking you) negotiating a corner would likely be staggered at what they can do (it looks much slower on TV). Common comments are “They are so brave” “Balls of Steel” etc. etc. Whilst most of them would probably be flattered by the compliments, in honesty they would probably tell you that bravery had very little to do with it.
Why? Bravery means doing something despite being afraid of a likely outcome, in this case an accident. But a good rider will happily take the same corner at the same speed 20 times without any problem at all. He knows what his outcome is, and crashing is not one of them. Therefore, bravery has very little to do with it, more ability. He knows he is riding well within his skill level.
If he can do it, so can you; maybe not to the 0.1 sec as him but certainly within the same ballpark. After all, he has very similar reflexes, eyesight etc. The only difference is training, knowledge, experience and will. This is important to appreciate- even Rossi is a human being, with all the limitations of one. What makes him so different to you? This something is very largely attainable with the right attitude.
Much of the information here is counter-intuitive, i.e., it goes against what many would consider instinct whilst riding. If you are new to this, take your time assimilating and learning it doing so at a pace which you feel confident. Confidence and commitment are the keys for good safe riding and these only come once you have a high degree of certainty in what will happen next to every one of your inputs to the bike controls.
Riding Around a Track is an extreme exercise in time management. I’m assuming that your goal is to negotiate the track as quickly as you can. During this time, between gearchanges, changes of direction, throttle control, choosing lines, braking etc., the workload can seem overwhelming. We can all do many things at once, but to get round a track quickly, it is best to give ourselves time to do these things one at a time, distributing the tasks as evenly as possible and not trying to perform them all at one time.
A Motorcycle is Inherently Stable
Any bike handles well. At standstill, the suspension is stable, the bike is not moving- it is fine. The problem comes when a rider climbs on and attempts to make it do things without fully comprehending its dynamics and how it will respond to different inputs. Realize that many of your actions aboard a bike are unsettling and destabilizing, and it will be easier to understand what it will do next.
Steering Counter-steering & Gyroscopic Forces
“A body at rest will remain at rest and a body in motion will continue in that motion unless acted on by an external force”– Newton’s laws of motion. A motorcycle moving at speed (say 100kmh) will move in a straight line and continue to do so unless something forces it to change direction, in this case, you.
This is important to understand, because it is a combination of this and gyroscopic forces acting on the front wheel (see diagram on gyroscopic forces below) that are responsible for a very strange effect called Counter-Steering. When traveling at speed, turning the handle bars of the bike will cause the bike to bank in the opposite direction (trying to continue in the same direction), i.e. pushing the left handlebar to will cause the bike to bank to the left. It is contrary to what we experienced when riding a bicycle and has caused a great deal of confusion among riders until the phenomenon was understood.
Try it (carefully) the next time you are riding your bike. Whilst the bike is upright at a good speed (say 80-100kmh) push the left handle bar. Which way does the bike bank? Common sense will tell you that the bike will turn right, experience will tell you otherwise. Understanding this will allow you to get the bike to negotiate a turn quickly and predictably; you are approaching a left-hand corner, it looks sharp, just using bodyweight shifting is never going to get you to turn quickly enough. Push the left handle-bar and the bike will bank left, setting you up to take the corner.
Zoom image
WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION
The key to riding a bike well is to realize about weight distribution and how it can be changed. Most bikes have a weight distribution of around 50:50 front to rear, but put a rider on, accelerating and braking and this can change wildly from 100:0 (very hard braking) to 0:100 (pulling a wheelie). A rider can affect weight distribution to some degree by moving his body backward and forward but the control which has the most influence over this is the throttle.
In a corner, think of the throttle as the weight distribution control.
Most bikes have a larger rear tire than the front with a tire contact patch ratio of about 40:60 front to rear i.e. the front tire has 40% of available grip and the rear 60%.
Therefore to achieve maximum corner speed, the bike needs to be using all the available grip by putting 60% of the weight on the rear wheel and 40% on the front wheel. How is this done? The same way a wheelie is done, by accelerating, i.e. rolling on the throttle. Throttle controls the weight distribution.
Again, this is counter-intuitive. Common-sense tells you to slow down into a corner, physics tells you to speed up. But it is important to note that this approach will only work if you have room to accelerate, i.e. you are not going into a corner too fast.
There is another reason to roll on the throttle when cornering: because of bike geometry, when power is applied, the rear suspension will extend, i.e. the rear will rise. Again this is counter-intuitive and most people whom have not been shown otherwise, will assume (incorrectly) that the rear will squat. When the rear rises, the effect on the front suspension is to make the steering head angle steeper, which will cause the steering to sharpen up. The net effect is to make the bike track the corner better. Please see the diagrams below:
Zoom Image
Conversely, not applying the throttle when in a turn will do the opposite and cause the bike to feel less able to turn.
Make sure that you have the correct speed before you even start the corner, gearchanges done, braking finished and once banked over, roll on the throttle gently to shift weight to the tire that has the most grip- the rear. The earlier this is done, the quicker you will get around the corner and the more stable you will be. This does not mean applying maximum throttle and hanging on but a gentle roll-on the throttle to change the bike from weight forward due to slowing down (most weight on front tire) to gentle acceleration (majority of weight on rear tire). Of course, shift your body weight front to rear accordingly to help with this effect.
The most common cause of accidents is to go into a corner too fast, think, “Oh S@#t!” and close the throttle. The bike would most likely have made it around the corner until the rider closed the throttle abruptly, sending most of the weight to the front tire which had to deal with turning forces, and then all of a sudden, braking forces too. At best, the bike would stand up (many bikes will stand up from a banking attitude under braking) and go straight off the track. At worst, the front end would slide and a low-side follow. The best course of action here (counter-instinctive) would have been to roll on the throttle and take the corner. Instead, the instinct for self-preservation caused a crash.
Because of this, until you are confident and consistent with your corner entry speed, keep it within your own confidence levels and learn to apply throttle as early as possible through the turn.
It almost goes without saying therefore, that to achieve this, every other action, such as gearchanges, braking, hanging off must be completed before you even begin to bank the bike for a turn.
This concept is discussed very thoroughly in “A Twist of the Wrist Vol 2” by Keith Code. Read it for further elaboration on this topic.
YOU GO WHERE YOU LOOK
Human beings were not designed to go 120mph. They were designed to max out at less than 20mph. This does not mean we cannot safely go at these speeds, it simply means that we are not able to use our built-in protection systems because they are operating way out of their normal operating parameters. We have to make a new set of instincts for ourselves and this takes training.
Normal human reaction times are approximately 0.4 – 0.6 seconds. I.e. it will take half a second to realize that an event has happened. Decision time can be 1-2 seconds and action anywhere between 1-4 seconds. This means we need to be aware of what is going to happen in the next 2-3 seconds in order to take appropriate action in time. At 5kmh, this means we have to look 1.5 metres (5 feet) ahead of us and generally, people walking will only look this far ahead. Doing so at 100kmh would give an impossibly small reaction time. At 100kmh this distance should be at least 30m (100ft) and at 150kmh this should be at least 50m (160ft).
This apparently simple task causes a lot of difficulty for many riders. Riding with your attention focused at too close a distance will give more erratic lines, rougher inputs into your controls instead of smooth inputs (this will destabilize the bike) and unnecessarily slow you down without any increase in your riding safety.
Looking farther ahead will help you to smooth your inputs to the bike because you have more reaction time. This will help you relax which is the key to going faster.
You know that you are riding well when your lap times decrease but you feel like you are going slower. Smoothness pays huge dividends in every aspect as it allows you to have a greater margin of safety or higher limits- you choose.
Having established that you need to look further ahead, than might at first be instinctive, may not be a problem on the straights. But what about around the corners? The temptation here is even stronger to look just in front, to look where the bike is pointing, forgetting that the bike is only pointing there temporarily and will not end up there. You should be looking where you aim to end up. A corner should be taken in one turn, not lots of little ones, and the only way to achieve this consistently is to look much farther into the turn then instinct tells you. This will make finding the right line much easier, cause far fewer corrections to the line, hence better throttle control (less variations to upset the bike and keep it within safe parameters)
For confirmation of this, look at where GP riders heads are pointing when they are hanging off the bike in a turn; it’s not straight ahead of the bike but between 30º - 45º off-centre from the straight ahead, depending on the radius of the turn.
There is another reason for this:- on a bike, you go where you look. This is why an accident at a race often doesn’t involve one bike. Human instinct is to look at the unusual event for danger, thus being attracted to it. Instinct on a bike is not a reliable indicator to trust until a new set have been created from training.
Hanging Off
Hanging off is a useful way of lowering the bike’s centre of gravity and moving it towards the centre of a turn whilst turning. Doing so allows cornering at a higher speed for the same angle of lean. Tyre geometry places limits on how far a bike can lean over, limiting the speed at which a corner can be taken maintaining balance. Hanging off can increase this.
However, the action of moving to a hanging off position can destabilize a bike so make sure that you are hanging off before you bank the bike over to negotiate a turn.
Braking:
Smoothness is the key to effective braking. Before maximum braking can be achieved, the front suspension needs to be set up. This is done by applying enough front brakes to compress the forks without taking them to their stops. Doing so will cause the front tire to lock or skip because there is no further wheel travel. If the front tire locks, most of the braking will be lost and the bike will be in a skid. Instincts will at this point instruct the right hand to apply more brakes since all retardation has been lost. This is exactly the wrong input. Unlocking the front wheel is done by releasing the front brake enough to allow the front wheel to regain traction and begin turning again and then to smoothly reapply them without locking them again.
During hard breaking the majority if not all weight is transferred to the front wheel. Very little if any weight remains on the rear wheel. It is for this reason that 80-90% of a bike’s braking power is at the front wheel. It is mostly not necessary to use the rear brake for maximum braking since engine breaking from gearchanges will already be causing the rear wheel to be close to its traction limit. The rear brake can be used to “top up” a little at the rear wheel once the engine speed has come down, reducing engine braking.
Because hard braking will take the front tire to its traction limit hard braking should be done whilst the bike is still upright and no cornering force is required of the front wheel. Once the bike is in a turn and most of the grip of the front wheel is devoted to turning the bike, little is left for braking. For this reason, braking should be done before entering a corner.
Advanced technique: release the brakes gradually as the bike is banked into the turn. The timing of the release of brakes should be 100% when the bike is upright to 0% once the bike is fully leaned over. This is difficult to do correctly and should only be attempted once the rider is very comfortable with late braking.
The reasoning behind this technique is to minimize suspension movement before the turn. At full braking when the bike is upright the forks will be almost fully compressed. Releasing the brakes will cause the forks to rebound. Going into the corner will again increase the load on the forks causing them to compress again. This see-sawing action on the bike will destabilize the bike with unwanted consequences. Using the above technique will help smoothen if not eliminate these oscillations.
To maximize braking, the torso should be straightened to the upright position and the bum moved as far back as possible. This adds wind resistance to help braking and moves the centre of gravity backwards, shifting more weight on the rear wheel, reducing the “fishtailing” effect at the rear wheel (caused by the rear trying to overtake the front).
Weight on Handlebars
The suspension of the bike was designed to absorb bumps, isolating them from the frame as far as possible whilst providing feedback to the rider on what the front wheel is doing grip-wise. The front wheel will move around, both up and down and turn left to right in response to the road. This, contrary to what first instincts tell you is actually totally normal.
The handle bars are to steer the bike, NOT TO HOLD ON TO. When a rider holds on tightly to the bars, he restricts the ability of the suspension to react in the way it was designed to. Many modern sportsbikes are set up to steer quickly, having steep angles of rake (the angle of the front forks relative to the vertical). The trade-off for quick steering is that the bike can feel a little nervous when charging hard out of a corner and with may even give a little “head shake”. Within limits, this is fine and the reason why steering dampers are commonly fitted. It is important to allow the bike to do this- fighting it by holding on tightly will only worsen the situation.
In addition, holding the handlebars/clip-ons tightly will reduce the amount of feedback you get through them. This feedback is critical to knowing how the front end is doing. Holding on tightly will delay getting this feedback giving less time and margin to adjust accordingly.
Holding on tight to the handlebars will ruin a bike suspensions ability to correct itself, so don’t– hold the handlebars/clip-ons only tight enough to operate the throttle. Doing so means placing more weight on the footpegs and gripping the tank with your knees.
Preparing for the Corner
Getting the right corner entry speed is critical to negotiating a corner well. Enter too fast and you will either have to bank the bike over further than you are comfortable with or back off the throttle and risk going off the tarmac by transferring too much weight forward and experiencing a “low side”
Go in too slow and you will not be able to use the full extent of track available and lean angle. Because of this, better too slow than too fast because you can accelerate whilst banked over.
To prepare for a corner, pick your corner entry point- a fixed point on the road or track where you will commit to the corner, brake and downchange the gears to set the correct engine speed and bike speed, hang off if necessary and use the throttle to fine-tune the speed of the bike. ONLY ONCE THESE ARE SET SHOULD YOU ENTER THE CORNER. Give yourself time to do this– if in doubt, do it sooner.
Lower gearing ratio
When the bike is banked, the contact of the tire with the tarmac is on the side of the tire reducing the effective diameter of the tire. This causes the rear tire to turn slightly faster relative to the engine which is the same as dropping down a gear.
Because of this do not enter the corner with the engine speed too close to the rev limit or the engine speed may bounce off the rev counter mid turn destabilizing the bike. This also causes the speedometer to over-read in a corner. If used well, this effect can be utilized advantageously by keeping the engine on the boil even though speed is dropping as the bike enters the apex. It is also because of this that throttle should be applied early in the corner to keep weight bias rearwards. Conversely, when exiting the corners, it gives a similar effect to changing up when going from full lean to upright, meaning you can delay gearchanges until you are upright.
SUMMARY
Before the Corner:
Scrub off Excess Speed and Set up for corner by
• Apply Brake if required
• Set gears to give correct engine speed for corner
• Hang off if required
• Use Throttle to fine-tune corner entry speed
To Enter the Corner:
• Look for the apex as aim point
• Push handle bar and opposite footrest to bank bike over whilst setting body for lean angle required
In the Corner
Do not constantly adjust the steering angle
Apply throttle to shift weight rearwards
Look for exit aim point
Increase throttle as radius of corner increases
Exiting the Corner
• Bring bike to upright by pushing opposite handlebar and footpeg to corner entry
• Climb back to upright position
• Apply as much throttle as possible
• Aim for next corner entry point
Human instinct is not designed for motorcycles and needs to be reprogrammed to be useful.
Last Word:
All of the above is a lot to remember for a single corner. Successfully doing all of this for a corner is probably the most rewarding aspect of biking. Doing two corners in a row successfully is much more difficult. This is why sportbikers will happily go round and round a 15 corner circuit like Sepang in search of that elusive “perfect lap” without getting bored. Do it right and you will find that someone else can still do it faster than you. “How is that possible? Maybe I’m exiting this corner too slowly”. Changing this will upset the whole rhythm of your laps requiring you to change the way you ride the circuit and relearn it all over again. Changing how you take one corner affects how you take the next and so on. It is this which it makes so challenging, interesting and rewarding. It is also this which will improve your riding skills in ways you never thought possible.
This document is only intended as a pointer of where to look to improve you riding skills. It is not a substitution for proper coaching by trained instructors who can observe your riding style and give feedback more appropriate to the particular hurdles that may be blocking the way to improving your riding.
Tunku Johan Mansur
9th March 2003
19th May2004 (second rewrite)
If you are reading this, it is assumed that you have passed your riding test and can handle a big bike competently, able to ride it as second nature. The information in here is to help you negotiate corners better since going down the straight flat-out should not be too much of a problem.
Those who have never seen a highly-trained rider at close range (especially if they are overtaking you) negotiating a corner would likely be staggered at what they can do (it looks much slower on TV). Common comments are “They are so brave” “Balls of Steel” etc. etc. Whilst most of them would probably be flattered by the compliments, in honesty they would probably tell you that bravery had very little to do with it.
Why? Bravery means doing something despite being afraid of a likely outcome, in this case an accident. But a good rider will happily take the same corner at the same speed 20 times without any problem at all. He knows what his outcome is, and crashing is not one of them. Therefore, bravery has very little to do with it, more ability. He knows he is riding well within his skill level.
If he can do it, so can you; maybe not to the 0.1 sec as him but certainly within the same ballpark. After all, he has very similar reflexes, eyesight etc. The only difference is training, knowledge, experience and will. This is important to appreciate- even Rossi is a human being, with all the limitations of one. What makes him so different to you? This something is very largely attainable with the right attitude.
Much of the information here is counter-intuitive, i.e., it goes against what many would consider instinct whilst riding. If you are new to this, take your time assimilating and learning it doing so at a pace which you feel confident. Confidence and commitment are the keys for good safe riding and these only come once you have a high degree of certainty in what will happen next to every one of your inputs to the bike controls.
Riding Around a Track is an extreme exercise in time management. I’m assuming that your goal is to negotiate the track as quickly as you can. During this time, between gearchanges, changes of direction, throttle control, choosing lines, braking etc., the workload can seem overwhelming. We can all do many things at once, but to get round a track quickly, it is best to give ourselves time to do these things one at a time, distributing the tasks as evenly as possible and not trying to perform them all at one time.
A Motorcycle is Inherently Stable
Any bike handles well. At standstill, the suspension is stable, the bike is not moving- it is fine. The problem comes when a rider climbs on and attempts to make it do things without fully comprehending its dynamics and how it will respond to different inputs. Realize that many of your actions aboard a bike are unsettling and destabilizing, and it will be easier to understand what it will do next.
Steering Counter-steering & Gyroscopic Forces
“A body at rest will remain at rest and a body in motion will continue in that motion unless acted on by an external force”– Newton’s laws of motion. A motorcycle moving at speed (say 100kmh) will move in a straight line and continue to do so unless something forces it to change direction, in this case, you.
This is important to understand, because it is a combination of this and gyroscopic forces acting on the front wheel (see diagram on gyroscopic forces below) that are responsible for a very strange effect called Counter-Steering. When traveling at speed, turning the handle bars of the bike will cause the bike to bank in the opposite direction (trying to continue in the same direction), i.e. pushing the left handlebar to will cause the bike to bank to the left. It is contrary to what we experienced when riding a bicycle and has caused a great deal of confusion among riders until the phenomenon was understood.
Try it (carefully) the next time you are riding your bike. Whilst the bike is upright at a good speed (say 80-100kmh) push the left handle bar. Which way does the bike bank? Common sense will tell you that the bike will turn right, experience will tell you otherwise. Understanding this will allow you to get the bike to negotiate a turn quickly and predictably; you are approaching a left-hand corner, it looks sharp, just using bodyweight shifting is never going to get you to turn quickly enough. Push the left handle-bar and the bike will bank left, setting you up to take the corner.
Zoom image
WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION
The key to riding a bike well is to realize about weight distribution and how it can be changed. Most bikes have a weight distribution of around 50:50 front to rear, but put a rider on, accelerating and braking and this can change wildly from 100:0 (very hard braking) to 0:100 (pulling a wheelie). A rider can affect weight distribution to some degree by moving his body backward and forward but the control which has the most influence over this is the throttle.
In a corner, think of the throttle as the weight distribution control.
Most bikes have a larger rear tire than the front with a tire contact patch ratio of about 40:60 front to rear i.e. the front tire has 40% of available grip and the rear 60%.
Therefore to achieve maximum corner speed, the bike needs to be using all the available grip by putting 60% of the weight on the rear wheel and 40% on the front wheel. How is this done? The same way a wheelie is done, by accelerating, i.e. rolling on the throttle. Throttle controls the weight distribution.
Again, this is counter-intuitive. Common-sense tells you to slow down into a corner, physics tells you to speed up. But it is important to note that this approach will only work if you have room to accelerate, i.e. you are not going into a corner too fast.
There is another reason to roll on the throttle when cornering: because of bike geometry, when power is applied, the rear suspension will extend, i.e. the rear will rise. Again this is counter-intuitive and most people whom have not been shown otherwise, will assume (incorrectly) that the rear will squat. When the rear rises, the effect on the front suspension is to make the steering head angle steeper, which will cause the steering to sharpen up. The net effect is to make the bike track the corner better. Please see the diagrams below:
Zoom Image
Conversely, not applying the throttle when in a turn will do the opposite and cause the bike to feel less able to turn.
Make sure that you have the correct speed before you even start the corner, gearchanges done, braking finished and once banked over, roll on the throttle gently to shift weight to the tire that has the most grip- the rear. The earlier this is done, the quicker you will get around the corner and the more stable you will be. This does not mean applying maximum throttle and hanging on but a gentle roll-on the throttle to change the bike from weight forward due to slowing down (most weight on front tire) to gentle acceleration (majority of weight on rear tire). Of course, shift your body weight front to rear accordingly to help with this effect.
The most common cause of accidents is to go into a corner too fast, think, “Oh S@#t!” and close the throttle. The bike would most likely have made it around the corner until the rider closed the throttle abruptly, sending most of the weight to the front tire which had to deal with turning forces, and then all of a sudden, braking forces too. At best, the bike would stand up (many bikes will stand up from a banking attitude under braking) and go straight off the track. At worst, the front end would slide and a low-side follow. The best course of action here (counter-instinctive) would have been to roll on the throttle and take the corner. Instead, the instinct for self-preservation caused a crash.
Because of this, until you are confident and consistent with your corner entry speed, keep it within your own confidence levels and learn to apply throttle as early as possible through the turn.
It almost goes without saying therefore, that to achieve this, every other action, such as gearchanges, braking, hanging off must be completed before you even begin to bank the bike for a turn.
This concept is discussed very thoroughly in “A Twist of the Wrist Vol 2” by Keith Code. Read it for further elaboration on this topic.
YOU GO WHERE YOU LOOK
Human beings were not designed to go 120mph. They were designed to max out at less than 20mph. This does not mean we cannot safely go at these speeds, it simply means that we are not able to use our built-in protection systems because they are operating way out of their normal operating parameters. We have to make a new set of instincts for ourselves and this takes training.
Normal human reaction times are approximately 0.4 – 0.6 seconds. I.e. it will take half a second to realize that an event has happened. Decision time can be 1-2 seconds and action anywhere between 1-4 seconds. This means we need to be aware of what is going to happen in the next 2-3 seconds in order to take appropriate action in time. At 5kmh, this means we have to look 1.5 metres (5 feet) ahead of us and generally, people walking will only look this far ahead. Doing so at 100kmh would give an impossibly small reaction time. At 100kmh this distance should be at least 30m (100ft) and at 150kmh this should be at least 50m (160ft).
This apparently simple task causes a lot of difficulty for many riders. Riding with your attention focused at too close a distance will give more erratic lines, rougher inputs into your controls instead of smooth inputs (this will destabilize the bike) and unnecessarily slow you down without any increase in your riding safety.
Looking farther ahead will help you to smooth your inputs to the bike because you have more reaction time. This will help you relax which is the key to going faster.
You know that you are riding well when your lap times decrease but you feel like you are going slower. Smoothness pays huge dividends in every aspect as it allows you to have a greater margin of safety or higher limits- you choose.
Having established that you need to look further ahead, than might at first be instinctive, may not be a problem on the straights. But what about around the corners? The temptation here is even stronger to look just in front, to look where the bike is pointing, forgetting that the bike is only pointing there temporarily and will not end up there. You should be looking where you aim to end up. A corner should be taken in one turn, not lots of little ones, and the only way to achieve this consistently is to look much farther into the turn then instinct tells you. This will make finding the right line much easier, cause far fewer corrections to the line, hence better throttle control (less variations to upset the bike and keep it within safe parameters)
For confirmation of this, look at where GP riders heads are pointing when they are hanging off the bike in a turn; it’s not straight ahead of the bike but between 30º - 45º off-centre from the straight ahead, depending on the radius of the turn.
There is another reason for this:- on a bike, you go where you look. This is why an accident at a race often doesn’t involve one bike. Human instinct is to look at the unusual event for danger, thus being attracted to it. Instinct on a bike is not a reliable indicator to trust until a new set have been created from training.
Hanging Off
Hanging off is a useful way of lowering the bike’s centre of gravity and moving it towards the centre of a turn whilst turning. Doing so allows cornering at a higher speed for the same angle of lean. Tyre geometry places limits on how far a bike can lean over, limiting the speed at which a corner can be taken maintaining balance. Hanging off can increase this.
However, the action of moving to a hanging off position can destabilize a bike so make sure that you are hanging off before you bank the bike over to negotiate a turn.
Braking:
Smoothness is the key to effective braking. Before maximum braking can be achieved, the front suspension needs to be set up. This is done by applying enough front brakes to compress the forks without taking them to their stops. Doing so will cause the front tire to lock or skip because there is no further wheel travel. If the front tire locks, most of the braking will be lost and the bike will be in a skid. Instincts will at this point instruct the right hand to apply more brakes since all retardation has been lost. This is exactly the wrong input. Unlocking the front wheel is done by releasing the front brake enough to allow the front wheel to regain traction and begin turning again and then to smoothly reapply them without locking them again.
During hard breaking the majority if not all weight is transferred to the front wheel. Very little if any weight remains on the rear wheel. It is for this reason that 80-90% of a bike’s braking power is at the front wheel. It is mostly not necessary to use the rear brake for maximum braking since engine breaking from gearchanges will already be causing the rear wheel to be close to its traction limit. The rear brake can be used to “top up” a little at the rear wheel once the engine speed has come down, reducing engine braking.
Because hard braking will take the front tire to its traction limit hard braking should be done whilst the bike is still upright and no cornering force is required of the front wheel. Once the bike is in a turn and most of the grip of the front wheel is devoted to turning the bike, little is left for braking. For this reason, braking should be done before entering a corner.
Advanced technique: release the brakes gradually as the bike is banked into the turn. The timing of the release of brakes should be 100% when the bike is upright to 0% once the bike is fully leaned over. This is difficult to do correctly and should only be attempted once the rider is very comfortable with late braking.
The reasoning behind this technique is to minimize suspension movement before the turn. At full braking when the bike is upright the forks will be almost fully compressed. Releasing the brakes will cause the forks to rebound. Going into the corner will again increase the load on the forks causing them to compress again. This see-sawing action on the bike will destabilize the bike with unwanted consequences. Using the above technique will help smoothen if not eliminate these oscillations.
To maximize braking, the torso should be straightened to the upright position and the bum moved as far back as possible. This adds wind resistance to help braking and moves the centre of gravity backwards, shifting more weight on the rear wheel, reducing the “fishtailing” effect at the rear wheel (caused by the rear trying to overtake the front).
Weight on Handlebars
The suspension of the bike was designed to absorb bumps, isolating them from the frame as far as possible whilst providing feedback to the rider on what the front wheel is doing grip-wise. The front wheel will move around, both up and down and turn left to right in response to the road. This, contrary to what first instincts tell you is actually totally normal.
The handle bars are to steer the bike, NOT TO HOLD ON TO. When a rider holds on tightly to the bars, he restricts the ability of the suspension to react in the way it was designed to. Many modern sportsbikes are set up to steer quickly, having steep angles of rake (the angle of the front forks relative to the vertical). The trade-off for quick steering is that the bike can feel a little nervous when charging hard out of a corner and with may even give a little “head shake”. Within limits, this is fine and the reason why steering dampers are commonly fitted. It is important to allow the bike to do this- fighting it by holding on tightly will only worsen the situation.
In addition, holding the handlebars/clip-ons tightly will reduce the amount of feedback you get through them. This feedback is critical to knowing how the front end is doing. Holding on tightly will delay getting this feedback giving less time and margin to adjust accordingly.
Holding on tight to the handlebars will ruin a bike suspensions ability to correct itself, so don’t– hold the handlebars/clip-ons only tight enough to operate the throttle. Doing so means placing more weight on the footpegs and gripping the tank with your knees.
Preparing for the Corner
Getting the right corner entry speed is critical to negotiating a corner well. Enter too fast and you will either have to bank the bike over further than you are comfortable with or back off the throttle and risk going off the tarmac by transferring too much weight forward and experiencing a “low side”
Go in too slow and you will not be able to use the full extent of track available and lean angle. Because of this, better too slow than too fast because you can accelerate whilst banked over.
To prepare for a corner, pick your corner entry point- a fixed point on the road or track where you will commit to the corner, brake and downchange the gears to set the correct engine speed and bike speed, hang off if necessary and use the throttle to fine-tune the speed of the bike. ONLY ONCE THESE ARE SET SHOULD YOU ENTER THE CORNER. Give yourself time to do this– if in doubt, do it sooner.
Lower gearing ratio
When the bike is banked, the contact of the tire with the tarmac is on the side of the tire reducing the effective diameter of the tire. This causes the rear tire to turn slightly faster relative to the engine which is the same as dropping down a gear.
Because of this do not enter the corner with the engine speed too close to the rev limit or the engine speed may bounce off the rev counter mid turn destabilizing the bike. This also causes the speedometer to over-read in a corner. If used well, this effect can be utilized advantageously by keeping the engine on the boil even though speed is dropping as the bike enters the apex. It is also because of this that throttle should be applied early in the corner to keep weight bias rearwards. Conversely, when exiting the corners, it gives a similar effect to changing up when going from full lean to upright, meaning you can delay gearchanges until you are upright.
SUMMARY
Before the Corner:
Scrub off Excess Speed and Set up for corner by
• Apply Brake if required
• Set gears to give correct engine speed for corner
• Hang off if required
• Use Throttle to fine-tune corner entry speed
To Enter the Corner:
• Look for the apex as aim point
• Push handle bar and opposite footrest to bank bike over whilst setting body for lean angle required
In the Corner
Do not constantly adjust the steering angle
Apply throttle to shift weight rearwards
Look for exit aim point
Increase throttle as radius of corner increases
Exiting the Corner
• Bring bike to upright by pushing opposite handlebar and footpeg to corner entry
• Climb back to upright position
• Apply as much throttle as possible
• Aim for next corner entry point
Human instinct is not designed for motorcycles and needs to be reprogrammed to be useful.
Last Word:
All of the above is a lot to remember for a single corner. Successfully doing all of this for a corner is probably the most rewarding aspect of biking. Doing two corners in a row successfully is much more difficult. This is why sportbikers will happily go round and round a 15 corner circuit like Sepang in search of that elusive “perfect lap” without getting bored. Do it right and you will find that someone else can still do it faster than you. “How is that possible? Maybe I’m exiting this corner too slowly”. Changing this will upset the whole rhythm of your laps requiring you to change the way you ride the circuit and relearn it all over again. Changing how you take one corner affects how you take the next and so on. It is this which it makes so challenging, interesting and rewarding. It is also this which will improve your riding skills in ways you never thought possible.
This document is only intended as a pointer of where to look to improve you riding skills. It is not a substitution for proper coaching by trained instructors who can observe your riding style and give feedback more appropriate to the particular hurdles that may be blocking the way to improving your riding.
Tunku Johan Mansur
9th March 2003
19th May2004 (second rewrite)
Track ETIQUETTE
| Track ETIQUETTE |
| [June 26, 2003 05:01 PM] When exiting the pits, there is a white line which separates the Pit-Lane exit from the oncoming straight. If you are exiting the Pit-Lane, DO NOT CROSS THIS WHITE LINE. There are riders coming down the straight at close to maximum speed and will probably not be able to avoid you if you do so. Get up to speed quickly by the time the yellow line ends and merge with the oncoming riders once your speed is synchronized. Conversely, if you are coming down the straight, do not cross the line into the Pit Lane Exit. On track days the marshals generally only use the red flag (End of session, proceed back to pits slowly) and the yellow flag (incident ahead, NO OVERTAKING!). If you see someone has gone off the track, DO NOT STOP ON THE TRACK, EVEN TO HELP A FRIEND. There are marshals there for exactly that. The run-off areas are there to provide a safe run-off in the event someone goes off. If a rider does go off, the marshals will try to clear him off as quickly as possible in case someone else runs off in the same spot. A rider stopping to help in a run-off area simply provides another obstacle for someone else to crash into. Contrary to what you've been taught for the road, you should not look into your mirrors whilst riding on the track. Race schools will ensure this by removing your mirrors! Your job is to make sure you negotiate the next corner safely. If you are about to be overtaken, just stick to your intended line and negotiate the corner smoothly. The person overtaking you will be able to see this and take appropriate action. DO NOT CHANGE LINE TO ACCOMMODATE THE RIDER BEHIND YOU. He will not be expecting this, and you may wander into his path. Because of this, there is no reason to look into your mirrors (other than vanity, in which case do it when the bike is parked). In fact this applies to riding on the track in general: avoid sudden changes in line and slowing down unnecessarily. If someone is about to overtake you, you may wander into the line he was intending and cause him to go off the track. It won't be your fault but it certainly won't make you popular. Stick to your intended line and pace. Sepang is a huge track with plenty of places to overtake. If it is obvious that the rider you are about to overtake is much slower than you, give room and remember that suddenly being overtaken when you are not expecting it can be a bit of a surprise. Don't buzz by unnecessarily close- it just puts others off and encourages mistakes. |
Sepang Circuit Information
Officially opened on March 9, 1999, Sepang Circuit was completed in a record of 14 months and with the recognition of its ultramodern facilities, it was given the honour to incorporate the F1 logo in its name.
Situated 85km from Kuala Lumpur city centre, it is accessible via modern North-South Expressway, Railway Links and a network of Highways. being closely situated to the Kuala Lumpur International Airport makes it an ideal place for world-class international events.
Sculptured on a 260-hectare of ex-oil plantation, and built with a concept of natural stadium, it required more than 9 million cubic meters of earth to be removed. To retain its scenic green, more than 5,000 palm trees were planted around the circuit.
With the length of 5.543km, the track features 15 turns and 8 straights including two high-speed stretches with access speed of more than 300km/hr, the track allows ample opportunities for overtaking, ensuring a suspense and thrills of the race.
The unique criterion of the circuit is that it can be split into two circuits when the time requires. The split circuits are situated on both side; the north and south side with the length of 2.8km and 2.6km respectively, thus allowing two races running concurrently.
The track is built using a specially formulated bitumen compound, which is smooth and not too abrasive to suit the Malaysian climate and all-year round use. The smooth river stones are used for the gravel beds along the track.
In all, the track can accommodate up to 130,000 spectators at a time. It can fill up the grand stand with 32,000 spectators at the Main Grand Stand and 18 corporate suites. Grandstands K and F, which can fill up another 18,500 spectators facing, Turn 1 and Tun 7 respectively.
The 1.3km length of double frontage grandstand affords a view of the circuit's longest straight. The grandstand is constructed along the east-west highway alignment to ensure shade from the sun's glare at all times.
The heart of the circuit and focal point is the three-storey Pit Building, facing the main grand stand. All the main facilities are housed here. 33 Pits, Race Control Room, Timekeeping Room, paddock hospitality suites and management offices.
Each of the fully air-conditioned pit-box is 8 meters wide and 24 meters long. Each block of two pits has three air-conditioned office equipped with telecommunication lines, a glass-walled hospitality area and attached kitchen.
The exclusive paddock clubs, on the first floor, comes with their own parking and private access. For the Royal guests and VVIPs, there is the Perdana Suite, situated on the second floor and can accommodate 250 people.
The administrative block for Sepang Circuit is the Welcome Centre, which also serve as the gateway to the Main Grand Stand. Apart from the offices, it also housed the Sepang Circuit shoppe, a restaurant and the National Automobile Museum.
For comfort and enjoyment of the spectators, a landscaped mall area has been designed with the purpose of connecting the north and south side of the Main Grandstand and also as the place for the trade and vending, exhibitions, food and beverages, amenities and souvenir outlets activities during a race event.
The track is electronically linked through a network of fibre optic cabling system along the track to 27 closed circuit TV cameras, which is centrally monitored at the Race Control Room. Every incident along the 5.543km circuit is recorded by the cameras and will be closely watched by the clerk of course during events.
Safety is the utmost importance and for that Sepang Circuit has a special block dedicated for its Medical Centre. It is situated next to the Pit Building and during major events; this block will be transformed into a fully equipped mini hospital.
SEPANG STATISTICS
Pole Position : Left
Length : 5,548 meters / 3.447 miles
Width : up to 25 meters
Right Corners : Ten
Left Corners : Five
Longest Straight : 920 meters / 0.572 miles
How Can I Race in the MSS?
The MSS Series organised by Sepang Track Officials is aimed at amateur bikers who would like to race in a properly-run series. Now coming to it's seventh year (as at 2008, since 2002), the popularity of the series with locally-based bikers is seeing increasing numbers of participants to test their skills.
At the front end of the Open category things are getting more and more competitive. However, Sepang has introduced a Novice Class to give a better chance to those who don't run at the pace set by the front runners to try standing on a podium.
To race you must have an AAM National C Novice license for road racing motorcycles. To get one of these you must do the following:
1. Become a member of an AAM-affiliated club. Most riders get a membership from the Motorcycling Association of the Federal Territory and Selangor (MAFTS). This costs RM150 and membership application forms can be had and given in to the Motocycle Sales Centre in Section 16 P.J. or Barry Leong of Raceline in Jalan Klang Lama (Tel: 019-212-3350 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 019-212-3350 end_of_the_skype_highlighting). A receipt of payment for the Club fees from either of these two is sufficient to prove to the AAM that you are a club member. Sepang Motorsports Club is also AAM affiliated.
2. Demonstrate that you are fit enough to race.
3. Go to the AAM Motorsports Dept Office.
AAM Motorsport Dept.
No. P1102, FA1, Tropics Shopping Centre Bandar Damansara Perdana 47820 Petaling Jaya Selangor
Tel: 6 03 77109121 Fax: 6 03 77100121
The manager is Mr S.N. Nanthan.
Map to the AAM motorsports office
You will have to give them 3 colour passport-sized photos, RM250 (RM200 for insurance of RM20,000 and RM50 for the license) the receipt of your Club membership and medical report from Dr. Kanan.
They will ask you to read basic race regulations and then ask you to do a written test to ensure that you are aware of things like what the flags mean, who to complain to etc. If you pass (I have never heard of anyone failing) you can collect your new license after a few days.
If you are not a Malaysian Citizen, you will have to get a release letter from your home race authority (a fax will do) to say that they have no objection to you getting a Malaysian Race license. British passport holders can get in touch with the Auto Cycle Union.
Please contact the AAM Motorsports department for details on this. Singaporean Citizens will have to go through a similar process with the Singapore MotorSports Association (SMSA) and get in touch with SIC officials for an Invite to join the race.
You are now allowed to race in the MSS!
The next stage is to make sure that your bike is race-prepped: Certain bolts must be lock-wired, mirrors removed etc. Your mechanic should be able to advise on this.
Next you need to turn up to Sepang on Practice day (the Friday before) or Qualifying (the Saturday before) and register. This costs RM300 per race. Part of the package will be your number boards, your pit pass and four extra pit passes for you to give to your "crew" (or anyone else you like). You will need to choose a race number, have your bike scrutinized and will be given a transponder to fix to your bike for timing purposes. Please note that if the race is on the South Track, you will not be using the nomal Paddock entrance used for Track Days but will have to go to the South Circuit Pits.
Happy and Safe Racing!
[updated Dec 2007]
Friday, November 19, 2010
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
Saturday, November 13, 2010
Friday, November 12, 2010
Valentino says ‘Bye, Bye Baby’
Grand Prix Legends is delighted to announce that a limited-edition run of the Italian MotoGP legend's 'Bye Bye Baby' T-shirt is now available to order online.
For any race fans that didn't catch the moment, Rossi wore this T-shirt on the podium following his final outing for FIAT Yamaha last weekend in Valencia. The 'Baby' in question is, of course, his beloved YZR-M1, on which he has scored 46 race victories and four world championships.
The T-shirt is going to be manufactured by Rossi's official clothing manufacturer, VR|46, and will be released early in December.
There will only ever be one print run of this T-shirt, so numbers are going to be limited. If you want to own this piece of motorcycle history then you'd best move quickly, as they will all be snapped up.
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